Travel Destination
Charming Central Mexico
June 14, 2008 - Article and photos courtesy of Brian Kahler
For
many of us gringos pronouncing the village's name Ajijic (A-HEE-HEEK) is almost
as difficult as getting there. Nestle
d on the northern shore of Lake Chapala,
Mexico's largest body of fresh water, the historic Mexican village of Ajijic is
experiencing an unprecedented surge of los touristas. They're coming for the
weather, the affordability, the culture and the warm hospitality of the
residents of this 400+ year old village.
By some estimates the population along the north shore of Lake Chapala has
doubled in the last twenty years and the many attractions of the area are
expected to lead to another doubling in the next 15. Census data in Mexico is
unreliable, but a readily accepted figure is that half of the 6,500 inhabitants
are "gringos" and up to 25% of that number are Canadians. This means that
English is spoken in most businesses. Visitors are advised to come equipped with
at least a few Spanish phrases to help develop a rapport with locals.
There are many good reasons for the surge in the popularity of the district,
but among the strongest is the area's exceptional climate. Although located in
the tropics, the high elevation (5000 feet) keeps temperatures spring-like year
round. The average annual daytime temperature is 25C, ranging from 30C in May to
22C in December. These conditions attract Canadians and northern US residents in
the winter, while the lakeshore is a huge attraction to US Gulf Coast residents
trying to escape heat and humidity in the summer.
The rainy season is from June to October when nighttime showers and
thunderstorms are frequent, but giving way to sunshine during the daylight
hours. Another huge attraction of the district is a very reasonable cost of
living, both for short term and semi-permanent visitors. There are only a few
large hotels and the popular chains are non-existent. Most visitors stay in
small hotels offering bed and breakfast.
One such example is the charming Casa Blanca hotel located a short two blocks
from the lake. Offering only eight rooms in a hospitable setting, guests mingle
and new friendships are borne. Over breakfast and happy hour life stories are
shared and secrets unveiled about the best places to shop or eat. During a
recent stay Peter Kennedy from Elliot Lake ON hit the nail on the head when he
said, "If I rented a house (casa), itmight be cheaper, but I wouldn't have the
opportunity to meet so many interesting people." Charles and Mary Hawken from
Rochester, NY agree. Both couples are multi-week return visitors who have
shunned the larger hotels and rental homes.
The Casa Blanca's rates of $64-74 US per night are typical and longer stays
will generate a discount. In the village of Ajijic more than thirty fine eating
establishments can be found, all sporting diverse menus and reasonable prices.
The stately Nueva Posada Hotel on Donato Guerra offers a linen graced table in a
garden setting where exceptional charbroiled beef tenderloin in a Portobello
merlot sauce can be purchased for $120 pesos (12.00US). El Jardin de Ninette on
Constitucion prepares a marvelous grilled salmon in honey and mustard sauce for
$120 pesos, and along with Mis Amigos on Colon, makes superb margaritas. If you
long for a simple meal and environment, a great hot dog or hamburger can be
found at Tom's Bar on Constitucion for only a few dollars.
Getting around the lakeside district is inexpensive. A twenty minute taxi
ride from Ajijic to the town of Chapala is $60 pesos while an entertaining bus
ride is only a few pesos. Car rentals are available, but not recommended.
Mexicans are generally warm and calm people, except when they get behind the
wheel of a car! Walking is the preferred method, but be prepared for rough
cobblestone streets and sidewalks which threaten a twisted ankle. The hilly
nature of the terrain may make it challenging for some. Good footwear is a
necessity.
The
variety of things to do and see is almost endless. Lake Chapala is approximately
50 x 12 miles in size and a number of good beaches are easily accessible. The
reported quality of the water varies from person to person, but a recent
inspection of the lake by US Civil Engineer Todd Strong is encouraging.
According to Strong his studies suggest the lake water quality was, "...3-4
times cleaner than California beaches." The water clarity is similar to that in
Lake Winnipeg with visibility restricted by silt. The locals have no problem
swimming in the lake or eating the fish from its shallow waters. Horseback
riding along the shore is popular while excellent tennis courts and golf courses
offer distracting but pleasant lake views.
For the less adventurous there is unlimited shopping at many fine boutiques
where local crafts and clothing may be found. Colorful open-air markets
(tianguis) are held weekly and offer everything from fresh fruit and vegetables
to local art. Silver jewelry can be found at a bargain prices as can pottery,
wooden or leather goods.
There are many active community service and social organizations that welcome
the participation of newcomers. Ajijic is a perfect place to study and practice
art, Spanish and Mexican culture. Classes are available through quality programs
or with private or group lessons.
The Lake Chapala Society (LCS) is a popular destination for many English
speaking expats. Founded more than fifty years ago as a cultural, social and
benevolent society, the LCS offers support and adjustment assistant to its
members and visitors. Amidst its lush gardens one can take Spanish lessons,
learn how to cook Mexican dishes, get advice on tending a tropical garden or
obtain information on local laws or services.
The most popular method of travelling to the district is by air. It is only
35 minutes from Mexico's 2nd largest city Guadalajara (GDL) which has
connections to most major US cities including Los Angeles, Houston, Chicago,
Atlanta and Phoenix.
Don't even think about bringing along illegal drugs or firearms! There is
little tolerance for these items at Mexican customs and most offenders have a
very unpleasant stay in the local jail where inmates are considered guilty until
proven innocent.
There are a number of web sites devoted to providing information about the
lakeshore communities. Two useful sites are:
www.ajijiccityguide.com and
www.mexico-insights.com.
Brian Kahler is a freelance writer who is a resident of Selkirk.
